Kaleidoscope

Bright fusions of colour and pattern are layered and manipulated to create a kaleidoscopic affect. 

Credits to: Photographer- John Petersen, Model- Sydnee Williams, Editor- Aran Gibbs

Rumpus Party- Panto vs Monsters

Islington Metal Works transforms for 'Rumpus' an eclectic, wild and extravagant night out. The only place I have ever felt under dressed! The theme of the night was Panto vs Monsters. I felt reluctant to dress up for my first time there, thinking only a handful would be in costume. Little was I aware that people here go all out for this occasion, making me wish I put on my Halloween costume again! Divided into seven rooms across the venue; it was impossible to not get bored. Each room further having it's own theme you become mesmerised by every small detail, from the lighting, to the music. A further perk was being freely allowed to dance anywhere you like - even on the cushioned furniture!

The party made it impossible to not have a good time, you could see how much effort the curators put into the project. 'Rumpus' showcased a beautiful collaboration with arts, performance and music. Many people I had met there had simple 9-5 jobs, yet used this party as escapism. There is no judgement to dress or the way you acted as long as you were having a good time. The attraction to the night was the eclectic mix of art, theatre performance and music. It was Cirque du Soleil meets A Midsummer Nights Dream; alive with jazz, electro-swing and gypsydelica.

A young woman dressed as a Pixie, spoke of 'Rumpus' stating, 'it allows me to be free, this is my second year and I plan on coming for years to come!' After stating how under-dressed I felt she added, 'it doesn't matter if you come in complete costume, or in your underwear. Nobody is here to judge, just to less loose and enjoy themselves, you cannot leave here without smiling.'

Only hearing recently of this event, it is perfect for anyone following a diverse and open sub-culture. It goes against the norms of fashion and society, and embodies similar ideas to Franco Moschino's outlook on fashion. Definitely a night to remember, and a night where anything goes; even men dressed a meteorites!

http://www.rumpusparty.co.uk/

Franco Moschino

'innovative, eccentric, colourful'

The brand 'Moschino' was founded in 1983 by Franco Moschino in Milan. He first started in the fashion industry by illustrating designs for Gianni Versace. Since opening his first store, his work has been known to criticize the fashion industry. With garments like the embellsihed jacket that had "expensive jacket" written on; generated popularity for the brand and established Moschino as a designer. 

Moschino once declared he was 'not a fashion designer. I am a painter, a decorator. I am not the author of a new era.' Although Moschino did not perceive himself as a fashion designer it is clear that critics thought otherwise. He introduced new eclectic ideas for the industry, mainly based upon insults. However people warmed to the tongue and cheek his brand was known for.

 In 1988 Moschino introduced a new line as part of the company, 'Moschino Cheap and Chic.' Another bold move by the designer, which proved successful as it satisfied other consumers. 

Moschino Cheap and Chic S/S 2012

Detailing of crochet design onto soft knitwear.The colour tones of the dusty pink, olive green and cream  keep the look fresh, and understated.

In 1994, what unfortunately turned out to be Moschino's last collection was his introduction of 'Ecouture' capsule line. The garments were made with resourceful materials and labelled, 'Nature Friendly Garment.' Later that year Franco Moschino passed away on September 18th. Rossella Jardini, who worked closely with the designer, continued with the company as Creative Director. She later stated that 'Franco raised the designers who worked under him; he had faith in them and gave them creative freedom.' 

Moschino's label did create ironic and surrealist impressions of the fashion industry. However many of his designs have become remarkable success, proving his tailoring skills were as strong as other influential designers.  

Rossella Jardini has recently left the company after almost twenty years of dedicated, and beautiful designs that embody Franco Moschino's eccentric take on fashion. Jeremy Scott is now the new creative director, with his first collection for the brand premiering A/W 2014. A spokeswoman from the company stated, 'This appointment respects the DNA of the brand as Jeremy Scott represents not only an eclectic and contemporary communicator but most of all a designer capable of re-interpreting the identity and the essence of Moschino.' 

Moschino S/S 14 

The label does not disappoint with Rossella Jardini's final collection for the brand. Embodying true Moschino tongue and cheek style, with teddy bear accessories to 'Holy Chic' statements. The collection is outragous, eclectic and fun, with the models dancing down the catwalk to Gloria Gaynor's 'I am What I am'.

Cristóbal Balenciaga

Cristóbal Balenciaga

'Balenciaga' was founded in 1918 in Spain, where the first boutique opened its doors. Almost 100 years later the design house is still excelling in the industry. It can be said Balenciaga was in a 'league of his own' with his uncompromising designs and modern silhouettes. Christian Dior spoke of him as 'the master of us all.' 

Balenciaga radically altered women's silhouettes in the early 20th Century, experimenting with diverse shapes that evoked fluidity and grace. It can be considered that this was his 'most important contribution to the world of fashion.'

During the second world war women risked travel across to Europe for Balenciaga's designs. His most celebrated piece of that time was the 'square coat'; in which the sleeve was cut into the same fabric as the yoke, creating a streamlined effect. Other signature looks constructed by Balenciaga was the 'balloon skirt;' or the dropped waist line, which opposed Dior's 'New Look' in the 50's. 

 

 Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga

After Christobel Balenciaga's death the couture house followed suit, until 1986 when it was re-opened with a new ready-to-wear line.  After Jacques Bogart left the company, Ghesquière took over as head designer in 1997. His work for Balenciaga followed his innovative approach, by re-introducing past designs.

 

Clements Ribeiro

Clements Ribeiro 

Eclectic and feminine, the Clements Ribeiro style is a direct reflection of such a mix, subverting traditional fashion elements with wit and intelligence, their deceptively simple designs are both easy and unconventional. - See more at: http://www.clementsribeiro.com/uk/about#sthash.1vALG1k6.dpuf

Eclectic and feminine, the Clements Ribeiro style is a direct reflection of such a mix, subverting traditional fashion elements with wit and intelligence, their deceptively simple designs are both easy and unconventional. - See more at: http://www.clementsribeiro.com/uk/about#sthash.1vALG1k6.dpuf

Eclectic and feminine, the Clements Ribeiro style is a direct reflection of such a mix, subverting traditional fashion elements with wit and intelligence, their deceptively simple designs are both easy and unconventional. - See more at: http://www.clementsribeiro.com/uk/about#sthash.1vALG1k6.dpuf

'Eclectic and feminine, the Clements Ribeiro style is a direct reflection of such a mix, subverting traditional fashion elements with wit and intelligence, their deceptively simple designs are both easy and unconventional' - reference from http://www.clementsribeiro.com/uk/about

Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro met whilst studying at Central St Martins; graduating in 1991. The company 'Clements Robeiro' was founded in 1993. The design duo sparked a new wave of British designers who began to 'mix colour, form and fabric in what they view as being an "irreverent take on traditional elegance". It can be said the designers created a fresh and exciting take within the predominant minimalist industry. Ribeiro spoke of it stating, 'minimal dressing had become so uniform, we felt that romantic and feminine was the only way to go.' This is something that can be interpreted as their signature style; showing consistent elements of feminine silhouettes and delicate embroidery. 


The designers took a break from the company briefly, whilst taking over design label Cacharel in 2000. After much anticipation the husband and wife returned to London Fashion Week with a highly desirable A/W 2009-10 collection. The growth of both designers is evident with this collection. It can be said that it presented the new focus on cut and silhouette, which has not been as clear in past shows. More to this I feel this collection displays elements of minimalism, a concept the designers have avoided in the past. However signature components to their style shine through; such as delicate embroidery, diverse colour proportions and an eclectic blend of print and knitwear.

A/W 2009/10

 Although a simplistic collection by Ribeiro; the contrast of the knit with the soft, light chiffon created depth to their work. It can also be said the designers have experimented with an interesting concept, which is unusual for an Autumn/Winter collection.

 The design house is further known for it's collaborations with the textile industry, and for major high street chains such as Dorothy Perkins and Evans. The recent capsule collection the designers have created for the plus-size store has been highly acclaimed, and striking. The designs follow Ribeiro's signature looks with energetic prints and quirky knitwear, all modeled on plus-size fashion bloggers.

Clements Ribeiro 'Swan Collection' for Evans A/W 2013

Clements Ribeiro A/W 2004 collection.

 The designers collaborated with textile designer Karen Nicol (see below blog post.) Nicol is known for her beautiful hand embroidery techniques; depicted here is folding ribbons of torn satin and chiffon that creates a large scale floral motif. Nicol has worked with Clements Ribeiro for twenty years, displaying a diverse body of work for them. Most recently Nicol has participated in their S/S 2010 collection. I feel this collection is fresh and flirtatious; with delicate fabrics evoking femininity. Nicol's embroidery is bold and enhanced by the pale cream fabric. I am further captivated by the light leopard printed coats, with intricate detail around the collar. Definitely a new take on the classic style- Clements Ribeiro rarely disappoint.

Clements Ribeiro S/S 10

Eclectic: deriving ideas, style, or taste from a broad and diverse range of sources.

Designers will choose many and varied approaches for inspiration. It is something that is eternal in fashion. The idea of looking at ‘eclectic fashion’ as a sub-culture captivates me. I believe it is not necessarily one particular style, but it is the concept of taking diverse ideas to create something new. For example floral motifs are an infinite trend, yet they can be manipulated with embellishment, layering or mixed media; sparking unique concepts based on the original idea. Mary Katrantzou embodies this approach with her collections. By layering block colour and clashing prints onto contrasting fabrics, it portrays eclectic ideas to her work. 

Collage courtesy of http://closetcollage.tumblr.com/post/12034023725/maryk

Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 ad campaign. 

Vintage Revival 

The term 'vintage revival' refers to second hand garments that originate from previous era, and are modernized to fit with current trends. There has always been a desire for beautiful fabrics; intricate embellishment; and unique designs that is often found in vintage clothing. However the vintage style did not become established until the early 1990's, because of the increase in demand for second hand clothing. It can be considered that vintage styling is eclectic. The collaboration of eras and trends generates something new and exciting, which further embodies an eclectic style. It can be said that designers don't revive vintage physically through their work, yet they restore it by using styles from previous eras and create innovative and fresh ideas.

Karen Nicol

Nicol is a contemporary textile designer, working closely with embroidery techniques. Although a textile designer she has collaborated in the past with the fashion industry, working with designers such as Clements Ribeiro, John Rocha, Givenchy and Chloé. Correlating with electic ideas Karen Nicol has spoke of her work stating, 'I look for vintage textiles, old embroideries and pieces of haberdashery, as well as things that have incredible colours, fantastic textures and interesting histories.' As a designer Nicol embraces anything eclectic with her work, from following the idea of vintage revival; to using unique influences. Which further illustrates the desire to commission her for fashion garments. 

  Above: Karen Nicol working with Clements Ribeiro for A/W 2004 

Street Style

I find Street Style can be a massive contribution to generating ideas and knowing who to target for. With each of these images I found elements of their outfit were creative and unique, for instance (at top right) his chiffon skirt layered over the loose tracksuit made it softer and edgier. And with the girl left to this her popping grey hair makes the statement with her outfit choice.

Anthropologie

Nothing negative can come from Anthropologie. The shop itself situated on Kings Road, Chelsea featuring innovative displays of garments and accessories. I find the store refreshing and busy with countless objects capturing my attention. 

I find it interesting the attention to detail when considering the presentation concepts Anthropologie use, for instance the necklaces pinned to a board with butterflies; which really does make the jewellery more desired much like a rare insect. 

Very intricate beading work here featured in a dress by Anthropologie; using an interesting colour palette and mirrored effect.